Gordon Setter
Also known as Gordon Setter, Black and Tan Setter
The Gordon Setter is a powerful, loyal sporting dog whose silky combination coat needs regular brushing, carding, and professional grooming to stay clean, comfortable, and naturally neat with a flag tail.
Overview
The Gordon Setter is a large, athletic sporting breed with a soft, silky combination coat in black and tan. The jacket should lie smoothly over the frame with longer furnishings on the ears, chest, undercarriage, legs, and tail. Most owners appreciate the breed's stamina and loyalty, but the coat still needs regular brushing, carding, and either hand stripping or careful clipper pattern work to stay clean, shiny, and tangle-free. Professional grooming for this breed usually follows card-and-hand-strip traditions or a clipper pet trim using longer blades such as #7F, #5F, or #4F — followed by carding. All pattern lines should be invisible. The finished groom should leave the dog looking as natural as possible: head free of long hair, short ear tops, smooth front legs, well-feathered rear, flag-shaped tail reaching the hock, neat hocks, and natural feet.
Characteristics & Traits
Breed Traits
Physical Traits
Drooling level
Shedding level
Coat grooming frequency
Social & Family
Playfulness level
Adaptability level
Openness to strangers
Watchdog protective nature
Good with other dogs
Good with young children
Affectionate with family
Personality
Energy level
Barking level
Trainability level
Mental stimulation needs
For Pet Parents
The Gordon Setter is a powerful, loyal sporting dog whose silky combination coat needs regular brushing, carding, and professional grooming to stay clean, comfortable, and naturally neat with a flag tail.
Grooming Commitment
Athletic build does not mean low maintenance — silky furnishings need consistent professional care.
The Gordon Setter's natural outline still needs consistent care. Regular brushing and professional carding keep the silky coat clean, comfortable, and mat-free.
- The Gordon Setter's silky coat needs regular brushing and professional care despite the breed's athletic nature.
- Hand stripping preserves the best coat texture, but clipper pet trims followed by carding are a practical alternative.
- All pattern lines should look invisible — a skilled groom makes the finish appear natural.
- The tail should be flag shaped and reach the hock when properly finished.
- Professional grooming every 4–8 weeks supports comfort and coat health.
At-Home Basics
- Difficulty
- moderate_to_high
- Shedding
- Moderate
- Brushing
- 2–4 times per week
- Pro Grooming?
- Yes
- Pro Frequency
- Every 4–8 weeks
Caring for Your Gordon Setter at Home
Brushing feathering & ears
Brush in sections through feathering, undercarriage, and behind the ears.
Chest & thigh brushing
Check thigh, ruff, and tail areas for hidden tangles.
Professional grooming schedule
Schedule professional grooming before matting becomes severe.
Nail trimming
Trim nails between appointments when needed.
Monitor ears
Monitor ears for odor or excessive moisture.
Ownership Profile
- First-time Owner
- Good with commitment
- Alone Time Tolerance
- Low to moderate
- Handling Sensitivity
- Moderate
- Apartment Friendly
- No
- City Friendly
- Yes
Best Suited For
- Active owners who enjoy outdoor exercise and field activity
- Families committed to regular coat maintenance
- Homes that can provide daily activity and companionship
- Owners comfortable with hand stripping, carding, or clipper pattern grooming
- Households seeking a loyal, athletic sporting companion
May Not Suit
- Sedentary households seeking a low-activity dog
- Owners who want minimal brushing between appointments
- Homes unable to accommodate a large, energetic sporting breed
- Owners expecting a low-maintenance silky coat
Mistakes to Avoid
- Brushing only the outer coat without removing compacted undercoat.
When to Call in a Professional
Leave full grooming — bathing, complete drying, deshedding, and any trimming — to a professional groomer every 4–8 weeks. It keeps the coat healthy and comfortable between visits.
History
The Gordon Setter developed in Scotland, named for the Duke of Gordon's kennel at Gordon Castle in the early 19th century. Breeders selected for a larger, heavier setter with substantial bone, excellent stamina, and a striking black-and-tan coat suited to Scottish upland hunting. The breed became known for style, power, and endurance in the field while maintaining a noble, balanced appearance. Modern grooming preserves the natural athletic outline through carding, hand stripping, or careful clipper pattern work followed by carding.
Temperament
Confident, loyal, energetic, and people-oriented with strong sporting instincts and substantial presence.
Gordon Setter Coat
The Gordon Setter has a dense, soft, silky combination coat with undercoat. The color is black with tan or mahogany points.
The jacket should lie smoothly over the head, throat, neck, shoulders, back, sides, and thighs, with longer furnishings on the ears, chest, undercarriage, belly, back of the legs, and tail.
The coat should be fresh smelling, light, and shiny when properly groomed, with the natural body jacket tight to the body, no clipper marks, and no loose hair or tangles.
Correct grooming uses carding and hand stripping; common pet practice uses clipper trim and carding with blades such as #7F, #5F, #4F, or a #2 guard comb.
- Type
- Silky
- Family
- Combination coat
- Structure
- Double
- Density
- Moderate to high
- Undercoat
- Yes
- Shedding
- Moderate
- Seasonal Change
- Yes
- Matting Risk
- Moderate
- Drying Difficulty
- Moderate
- Water Retention
- Moderate
- Growth Pattern
- Seasonal and continuous
- Breakage Risk
- Low to moderate
Common Problem Areas
Groomer's Guide
Technical reference for professional groomers — specifications and standard operating procedures intended for certified groomers.
Goal: Maintain a fresh, clean, light, and shiny coat
Tools Required
- Slicker brush
- Pin brush
- Greyhound comb
- Rubber curry
- Pumice stone
- Carding tools
- Stripping knives
- Professional clippers
- Straight shears
- Curved shears
- Thinning shears
- Small detailing shears
- Dematting tools
- High-velocity dryer
- Nail clippers or grinder
- Ear cleaning solution
- Cotton balls
Pre-Bath Prep
- Trim or grind nails every four to six weeks.
- Clean ears with a mild ear-cleaning solution and document any odor, redness, or discharge.
- Use a rubber curry, shedding blade, pumice stone, carding tool, fine stripping knife, or natural bristle brush to loosen dander and remove loose coat.
- Use a high-velocity dryer over the coat to lift dirt and debris and loosen coat before the bath.
- Line brush in sections to locate tangles before bathing.
- Confirm whether the head, throat, and ears need thinning, stripping, or clipper work.
- Confirm whether whisker removal is requested.
Before Grooming
- Coat density and silky texture
- Undercoat compaction
- Matting in feathering and friction areas
- Whether hand strip or clipper trim is requested
- Ear condition and coat profusion on ear tops
- Nail length and foot coat
- Skin condition
- Whether throat should be trimmed close or left natural
Consultation Notes
- Confirm whether the owner wants hand stripping, carding, or a clipper pet trim.
- Explain that clipper work should leave no visible clipper marks.
- Discuss that longer blades (#7F, #5F, #4F) are preferred over shorter ones for easier blending.
- Ask about home brushing routine and field activity level.
- Check whether whisker removal is requested.
Preparation Objectives
- Remove loose coat before bathing
- Identify mats in feathering
- Confirm trim method with the owner
- Protect skin and plan pattern work
Recommended Actions
- Trim or grind nails every four to six weeks.
- Clean ears with a mild ear-cleaning solution and document any odor, redness, or discharge.
- Use a rubber curry, shedding blade, pumice stone, carding tool, fine stripping knife, or natural bristle brush to loosen dander and remove loose coat.
- Use a high-velocity dryer over the coat to lift dirt and debris and loosen coat before the bath.
- Line brush in sections to locate tangles before bathing.
- Confirm whether the head, throat, and ears need thinning, stripping, or clipper work.
- Confirm whether whisker removal is requested.
Preparation Warnings
- Do not assume surface brushing has cleared the undercoat.
- Do not promise a long natural finish if matting is severe close to the skin.
- Refer persistent ear or skin concerns to a veterinarian.
Objectives
- Clean the coat thoroughly
- Remove odor and debris from feathering
- Prepare the coat for complete drying and finishing
Process
- Follow silky combination coat bathing protocols (refer to book page 69).
- Fully saturate the coat to the skin.
- Use shampoo appropriate for skin and coat condition.
- Rinse thoroughly, especially in chest, leg, and tail feathering.
- Apply conditioner when the coat feels dry or tangled.
- Remove excess water without rubbing feathering into mats.
Product Guidance
- Choose products based on skin sensitivity and coat dryness, not coat color alone.
- Insufficient rinsing can leave residue that irritates skin under dense coat.
- Light conditioning can make combing feathering easier after drying.
Breed Specifics
- Bathe once a week to once every twelve weeks depending on lifestyle.
- Feathering holds moisture — complete drying is essential.
- A damp towel over the muzzle after bathing helps neaten the face when needed.
Drying Objectives
- Dry the coat completely to the skin
- Remove loosened undercoat
- Separate feathering for finishing
- Prepare a smooth surface for carding, stripping, or clipper work
Drying Methods
- High-velocity drying in sections
- Line brushing during drying
- Comb check after the coat is fully dry
Drying — Breed Specifics
- Pay extra attention to behind the ears, the ruff, thigh area, undercarriage, and tail.
- Do not begin trimming until the coat is completely dry and cool to the skin.
- Check for density inconsistencies by hand after drying.
Drying Quality Standard
The coat should be fully dry, loose undercoat removed, and combable through all feathering before detail work begins.
Techniques
- Bath and brush
- Deshedding
- Carding
- Hand stripping
- Bulk thinning
- Clipper trim for pet maintenance
- Thinning shear finish
Common Trims
- Hand Strip and Card Finish
- Clipper Pet Trim
- Light Maintenance Trim
Clipper Areas
- Pet body pattern with #7F, #5F, #4F, or guard combs
- Head and muzzle neatening with #7F to #4F on heavier-coated dogs
- Throat trimming with #10 or #15 inside the cowlick line
- Ear top trimming with #10 or #15
- Sanitary trimming
- Pad trimming with #10
- Inner ear cleaning when coat is profuse or odorous
Scissor Areas
- Ears
- Feet
- Hocks
- Flag tail
- Thigh bulk thinning
- Body blending
- Undercarriage arch
Scissoring — Primary Areas
- Ears
- Feet
- Hocks
- Flag tail
- Thigh bulk thinning
- Body blending
- Undercarriage arch
Scissoring — Finish Goals
- Neat natural outline
- No visible scissor or clipper lines
- Ear tops clipped or thinned with soft blending line
- Rounded neat bottom ear feathering
- Flag-shaped tail reaching the hock
- Invisible pattern transitions
Scissoring — Breed Specifics
- Bulk thin the thigh area to accentuate muscle while leaving furnishings on the back of the thighs.
- Neaten the undercarriage into a soft arch — highest point directly below the last rib.
- Shape the flag tail naturally with thinning shears — pointed tip reaches the hock.
- Slide thinning shears up under the coat with the smooth blade against the skin to avoid pinching.
- The front of the front leg and chest should be treated as separate areas.
Clipper Work — Common Uses
- Pet body pattern with #7F, #5F, #4F, or guard combs
- Head and muzzle neatening with #7F to #4F on heavier-coated dogs
- Throat trimming with #10 or #15 inside the cowlick line
- Ear top trimming with #10 or #15
- Sanitary trimming
- Pad trimming with #10
- Inner ear cleaning when coat is profuse or odorous
Clipper Safety Notes
- Longer blades are preferred over shorter ones — shorter body patterns are harder to blend into longer furnishings.
- Always trim pads with a #10 blade regardless of other blade choices.
- Card the coat after clipping to retain some proper texture.
- Keep the blade parallel with natural hair growth — cutting cross-grain creates holes that are almost impossible to correct.
- When clipping inside the ear for sanitation, use a light touch with blades ranging from #10 to #40 on the upper section only.
Equipment
- #10 blade for pads
- #10 or #15 blades for throat and ear tops
- #7F to #4F blades for head, cheeks, and body pattern
- #2, #1.5, and #1 guard combs
- Thinning shears for blending
Blade & Length Selection
- Owner preference for hand strip vs clipper trim
- Coat density and profusion
- Skin sensitivity
- Whether longer blades can achieve the desired pattern
- Need to blend pattern lines invisibly into furnishings
Common Pet Trim Styles
- Hand Strip and Card Finish — The traditional presentation using hand stripping, carding, and bulk thinning to maintain proper coat texture, color, and natural outline with a flag tail.
- Clipper Pet Trim — A clipper body pattern using #7F, #5F, #4F, or guard combs followed by carding, with neat ear tops, feet, hocks, and flag tail.
- Light Maintenance Trim — A bath, deshed, card, and light neatening that preserves maximum coat length while keeping the dog clean and tangle-free.
Style Selection Factors
- Owner preference for hand strip vs clipper
- Coat density
- Home brushing frequency
- Field activity level
- Matting history
Head
Keep coat on the head lying smoothly and free of long strays Conform fine short hair to the shape of the skull Maintain a noble, natural expression Trim the throat close with a #10 or #15, or leave natural on light-coated pets — stay inside the cowlick line, stopping about three to four finger widths above the breast bone
Over-clipping and losing breed character Leaving long strays on the head Visible transitions at the cowlick seam
Ears
Clip top 1/3 of ear leather or to the jawline if ears are very long with a #10 or #15 blade, creating a soft dip at the blending line. Neaten the clipped edge of the front of the ear with small shears. Neaten bottom of ear feathering so it is rounded and neat. If coat is profuse, heavy, or odorous, clip the inside upper section of the ear with a very close blade using a light touch.
Do not diagnose or treat suspected ear infection. Refer odor, discharge, redness, swelling, or pain to a veterinarian. Always keep the tips of the shears toward the tips of the ears when edging for safety.
Feet
Trim pads with a #10 blade using a very light touch. If there is long fur between the toes, back-brush the fur so it stands up on top of and away from the foot. With thinning shears, trim off the excess to create a neat, natural-looking foot. Tidy the outside edge of the foot with small detailing shears if needed. If hocks have longer coat, trim lightly with thinning shears. A #4F blade used carefully in reverse works well for tops of feet and hocks on some dogs. Trim nails short or grind for healthy foot structure.
Debris trapped between toes after field work Over-trimming pads and causing irritation
Tail
Shape the tail like a triangular flag — pointed tip reaches the hock. Cover the top with short, smooth harsh coat while long silky feathers fall from the underside. Create a break in the fur at the root base separating tail from body. Shape naturally with thinning shears or shears.
Sanitary Area
Neaten the undercarriage into a soft arch — highest point directly below the last rib Remove only the coat needed for hygiene Blend naturally into surrounding feathering
ears
highMaintenance
- -Clip top 1/3 of ear leather or to the jawline if ears are very long with a #10 or #15 blade, creating a soft dip at the blending line.
- -Neaten the clipped edge of the front of the ear with small shears.
- -Neaten bottom of ear feathering so it is rounded and neat.
- -If coat is profuse, heavy, or odorous, clip the inside upper section of the ear with a very close blade using a light touch.
Styles
- -Top 1/3 of ear leather clipped or set to jawline
- -Bottom feathering rounded and neat
Risks & Warnings
- -Do not diagnose or treat suspected ear infection.
- -Refer odor, discharge, redness, swelling, or pain to a veterinarian.
- -Always keep the tips of the shears toward the tips of the ears when edging for safety.
feet
highMaintenance
- -Trim pads with a #10 blade using a very light touch.
- -If there is long fur between the toes, back-brush the fur so it stands up on top of and away from the foot.
- -With thinning shears, trim off the excess to create a neat, natural-looking foot.
- -Tidy the outside edge of the foot with small detailing shears if needed.
- -If hocks have longer coat, trim lightly with thinning shears. A #4F blade used carefully in reverse works well for tops of feet and hocks on some dogs.
- -Trim nails short or grind for healthy foot structure.
Styles
- -Natural neat feet
- -Lightly beveled feet with thinning shears or #4F in reverse
Risks & Warnings
- -Debris trapped between toes after field work
- -Over-trimming pads and causing irritation
head
highGoals
- -Keep coat on the head lying smoothly and free of long strays
- -Conform fine short hair to the shape of the skull
- -Maintain a noble, natural expression
- -Trim the throat close with a #10 or #15, or leave natural on light-coated pets — stay inside the cowlick line, stopping about three to four finger widths above the breast bone
Styles
- -Natural smooth head with finger plucking or thinning
- -Clipper neatening with #7F to #4F for heavier-coated dogs on cheeks and top skull
Risks & Warnings
- -Over-clipping and losing breed character
- -Leaving long strays on the head
- -Visible transitions at the cowlick seam
tail
highGoals
- -Shape the tail like a triangular flag — pointed tip reaches the hock.
- -Cover the top with short, smooth harsh coat while long silky feathers fall from the underside.
- -Create a break in the fur at the root base separating tail from body.
- -Shape naturally with thinning shears or shears.
Styles
- -Flag-shaped tail reaching the hock
- -Short smooth harsh coat on top with silky feathers underneath
sanitary Area
moderateGoals
- -Neaten the undercarriage into a soft arch — highest point directly below the last rib
- -Remove only the coat needed for hygiene
- -Blend naturally into surrounding feathering
High-Risk Areas
- Behind the ears
- Around the ruff
- Thigh area
- Undercarriage
- Tail
- Between the toes
- Ear feathering
- Chest feathering
- Rear leg feathering
Challenges
- Blending clipper body patterns invisibly into furnishings
- Owner requests for clipper cuts when a natural finish is preferred
- Seasonal undercoat compaction
- Incomplete drying in dense feathering
- Cross-grain thinning creating irreparable coat holes
- Leaving visible clipper tracks when a seamless natural finish is expected.
- Cutting cross-grain with thinning shears, creating holes in the coat.
- Beginning detail work while feathering is still damp.
- Using blades other than #10 for pad trimming.
- Using blades that are too short, making it impossible to blend into furnishings invisibly.
Management Principles
- Prefer longer blades over shorter ones for easier blending.
- Card after clipping to restore texture.
- Use bulk thinning with moderately toothed single-sided thinning shears.
- Work methodically — four to six cuts per area, then brush out before continuing.
- Never cut cross-grain with thinning shears.
Pro Tips
- Confirm hand strip vs clipper trim before starting.
- Prefer #7F, #5F, or #4F over shorter blades for easier blending into furnishings.
- Card the coat after any clipper body work.
- Clip top 1/3 of ear leather or to jawline with #10 or #15 — keep shears pointed toward ear tips when edging.
- Trim pads with a #10 blade and back-brush between the toes when needed.
- Bulk thin thighs but leave furnishings on the back of the thighs.
- Shape the flag tail to reach the hock with a natural break at the root base.
- Never cut cross-grain with thinning shears.
Assessment Priority
Preserve a natural athletic outline with invisible pattern lines and a flag tail reaching the hock
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